The little restaurant in Newport Beach bordering the 73 toll road (Nana San means seven three in Japanese) often has a wait before it opens for dinner. Nabbing a seat at the bar might take a little bit of patience, but this sushi is worth it.

Simple nigiri is what Nana San specializes in – elegantly draped cuts of fish cover sticky rice that’s predaubed with wasabi, so no extra seasoning like soy sauce is necessary. Unlike some of the snootier sushi spots, American favorites like California or spicy tuna rolls are available as well. They’re popular with the lunch crowd, and it’s to Nana San’s credit that it balances affordable sushi combos with its more gourmet fare.